Morgans holds court in a renovated two-story 1930s house, freshly painted white, with black-and-white striped awnings and porches around the front and side. So very pretty and quaint. If the menu looks familiar, it’s likely because owner Barclay Graebner served the same bill of fare at her Blu Dog Café on Española Way a decade ago.

     

    “Modern comfort food” means a slightly jazzed, occasionally Asian- or Mediterranean-inspired lineup of dishes. For instance, there are great panko-crusted cubes of “coconut essence” tofu pooled in apricot-soy glaze. We also liked “little ears” pasta with broccoli rabe and numerous patty pieces of savory homemade turkey sausage; thin but flavorful lentil soup; and double-ribbed organic lamb chops. Lunch brings an oozy grilled cheese sandwich with white cheddar, Gruyère, and Brie plied between buttery slices of sourdough. Weekday breakfast features coffee or orange juice with any breakfast entrée.

     

    And an à la carte weekend brunch is the bomb. Sitting on that idyllic porch in the lemonade-colored sunshine is downright Waltons-esque. If only we could inhale the flatulence of cows rather than cars.

     

     

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